How to wire a ironhead
So, you started tearing down your old Sportster motor, only to find out you need quite a few special tools.
Aside from basic hand tools, you'll also need a piston ring installer, torque wrench, dial caliper, and a feeler gauge. And then there's the Ironhead special tools. First is, are you a creative person? Analyze what needs to be done and think about how to get there.ironhead wiring 77 xlh sideview
There's always alternatives if you think about it hard enough. And if you can cut, drill, and weld, many specialty tools can be fabricated cheaply. In no particular order, here are the special tools that you will need during an Ironhead Engine Build.
To remove the nuts and retainers on Sportstersa clutch spring compressing tool is needed to take pressure off the clutch assembly. Drill and tap a hole in the center of the metal stock, then drill holes in either end.
To remove the primary chain on a Sportster, a tool is needed to keep the two sprockets from turning while you remove the hub nut. The tool fits in between the clutch hub and the front sprocket. The picture above shows a DIY sprocket locking link tool holding the compensating sprocket and clutch basket. To remove the compensating sprocket shaft nut front pulley another specialty tool is needed. This can also be made, but they're pretty cheap to buy.
Some bike shops use an impact gun on this nut, instead of using a locking tool. Either method will work. Having an engine stand makes working on the motor much easier.
You can buy one, but if you can weld, consider making one. Alternatively, you can lay the engine down on a couple of 4x4 blocks of wood. I've used both of these methods. All pre Sportsters have taper-shaft cranks that were designed to be rebuilt. This allows Ironhead bottom ends to be rebuilt several times. To hold the flywheel while tightening the nuts, you can fabricate a simple holding jig that uses the holes in the flywheel.
Starting with a cardboard template, take a piece of steel and cut out the shape needed. The "V" needs to be big enough to clear the crank pin.
For early Sportsters, the inner sprocket-shaft bearing Harley-Davidson tool number is For later models, H-D tool fits Sportsters A starter relaycommonly known as a starter solenoid, is the part of a vehicle which switches a huge electric current to the starter motor, in light of a little control current, and which in turn sets the engine in motion. Its capacity is indistinguishable from that of a transistor except that it utilizes an electromagnetic solenoid instead of semiconductor to play out the exchanging.
In numerous vehicles the solenoid additionally connects with the starter pinion with the ring gear of the engine. All start relays are simple electromagnets consisting of a coil and a spring-loaded iron armature.
When a current passes through the coil of a relay, the armature moves to increase the flux. When the current is switched off, the armature contracts. In a starter relay, when a key is turned in the car ignition, the movement of the armature closes the pair of heavy contacts that serve as the bridge between the battery and the starter motor. To ensure the starter relay functions properly, it must receive sufficient power from the battery.
Insufficiently charged batteries, corroded connections, and damaged battery cables can all prevent the starter relay from receiving enough power to operate correctly. When this happens, an audible clicking noise is typically heard when the ignition key is turned. Because it contains moving parts, the starter relay itself can also fail over time.
If it fails, the ignition makes no sound when the ignition key is turned. There are two types of starter relays: internal starter relays and external starter relays. Internal starter relays are built within a starter motor. The relay is the switch mounted on the outside of the starter motor housing with its own case.
Most of the time, when a starter motor fails, it is usually the starter motor relay and not the armature or gear that goes bad. External starter relays are separate from the starter motor. They are usually mounted above a fender or on the firewall of a vehicle.
This type of starter relay has power directly from the battery and key operation from the start position. The external starter relay works the same as the internal starter relay; however, there is more resistance applied to the circuits.Nikola walked me through the steps yesterday with the rear cylinder, and I repeated that today on my own for the front cylinder.
BUT while I lubed both cylinder bores, I did not lube either piston so I needed to redo both of them. Lubing is essential as part of the engine assembly process.
Remember these—the cast iron cylinders, which I sanded and painted? Took off the tape, top. Took off the old gasket. Scraped off gasket remnants with razor blade. Used 60W oil and a few squares of toilet paper, folded up, to clean and lubricate the inside of the cylinder. Squirted a bit of oil in the cylinder, and started on one side and repeated all around, on top and bottom halves.
A diagram of the cylinder components from my service manual. Checked the fit of the gasket on the bottom of the cylinder. Placed the gasket on the cylinder base. Spaced ring gaps about equidistant around piston.
Made sure they were staggered otherwise if there were gaps where air could escape, the compression would be low resulting in poor engine performance. Then lubed the piston with extreme pressure, anti-seize engine assembly lube. Placed the piston inserter ring tool around the piston and secured with the piston ring compressor.
Placed the cylinder over the piston. Used a rubber hammer and alternated tapping the front and back onto the piston. My lovely assistant Nikola held the cylinder and piston up while I tapped. Once the cylinder cleared the rings, removed the piston inserter ring and compressor tool and used my hand to pound the top of the cylinder down. Got the sucker on. The top view. The movement of the pistons up and down compresses the air in the cylinder and this is part of the engine combustion process.
Just a bit on all of the threads. Then got my nuts. Common sense—one side is dirtier than the other, which means that side was exposed. The clean side goes down. Tightened each nut to a snug fit with a wrench in a criss cross fashion, so that the weight distributed evenly. The last step was to torque all the nuts to 30 ft lbs. You are commenting using your WordPress. You are commenting using your Google account.
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Notify me of new posts via email.The Harley-Davidson Sportster line of motorcycles is designed with all the performance and convenience of modern motorcycles combined with the classic design of vintage Harleys.
They don't always come exactly like you want them right out-of-the-box, so knowing how to add custom accessories, such as gauges, is necessary for customizing your Sportster. Harley-Davidson manufactures a tachometer kit that can be used to add a tachometer gauge alongside the factory-installed speedometer for a custom gauge setup.
This clamp is in the center of the handlebar. Set these two bolts aside for later use. The upper fork bracket cover is located beneath the handlebar where the front forks attach to it.
Classic Motorcycle Build
Remove the four Torx screws on the sides of the rear riser cover with a T Torx driver. The rear riser cover is just beneath the location of the handlebar clamp. Pry out the tabs on either side of the electrical harness panel with a standard jeweler's screwdriver.
Pull the electrical harness out of the riser to expose the Deutsch connector. This is the connector that controls the electrical wiring of the components in the handlebar. Disconnect the Deutsch connector. Use the jeweler's screwdriver to pry the secondary lock out of the Deutsch connector. The lock is made of orange plastic and has four square holes and 12 small circular holes.
This will expose the ends of the wires of the handlebar components. Do not remove any of the other wires. Remove these wires one at a time by prying up the locking tab holding each one of them in place with the jeweler's screwdriver then sliding the wire out. Cut the black wire leading from the Deutsch connector to the speedometer with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Unscrew the speedometer reset switch boot counterclockwise until it comes loose. Remove the back plate and wiring harness from the back of the speedometer.
Remove the speedometer gasket from the base of the speedometer. Pull the speedometer out of its bracket, leaving the upper gasket in place. Place the speedometer in the dual bracket included with the Sportster tachometer kit.
Reconnect the speedometer's wire harness to the Deutsch connector. Assemble the wiring harness for the tachometer by placing the orange wire into the far left hole, the black wire into the next hole to the right after the large plastic divider and the pink hole into the next hole to the right. Cut off the opposite end of the orange wire with the needle-nose pliers.
Snap the completed wiring harness into the back of the tachometer. Slide the tachometer into the empty side of the dual bracket, next to the speedometer. Locate the black wire that you cut earlier which ran from the speedometer to the Deutsch connector and strip the insulation from its end with wire strippers.View Full Version : Ironhead How to wire charging light? I have a ironhead xlch with an aftermarket cycle electric regulator mounted directly to the alternator at least I think this is an alternator and not a generator.
The regulator has an F tab, an A tab, and a Batt terminal. Does anybody know how to add a charging system warning light to this setup? Did you mean to post this in the Test Area? Shall I move it to the Ironhead Section? I thought I did put it in the ironhead section but I don't see it there now. CE is self contained. Just wire the Gen light. Off the L. If you need it.
Battery and fuse off B. Yer right about that! I had hoped that it would come out better. Looking at the file I can barely read the damned thing either :doh I hadn't mentioned it but you are absolutely correct.
Does it look anything like this one? No, my setup does not match Jon's photo. My regulator has one terminal connected directly to the battery. There are also two wires protruding from the regulator, leading to terminals mounted on the generator or is it an alternator?
A green wire from the regulator is connected to a terminal labeled F on the generator, and a tan wire from the regulator is connected to a terminal labeled A on the generator.
The reg and gen are hooked up correctly according to CEs instructions. What's happening with a charge light, is that you are looking at whether current is flowing to the battery or from the battery. When the current is flowing to the battery, the gen light is out. And conversely, when current is flowing out from the battery to supply electricity to all the systems that are using it, the gen light will be on.
Meaning that the battery is stronger than the gen for the moment. Crank up the rpm a little and the light should go out meaning that the gen has come up to speed and is now stronger than the battery and feeding all the systems using electricity and the is also pumping up the battery so that it can temporarily feed everthing while the eng rpm is low such as when you're at a stop light.
On my bike, the gen light will be out at about 1k rpm and above. I'm still using the mechanical reg and of course this is with a new battery that I recently purchased and properly charged. So, to properly connect the gen light, if everything is wired according to the factory wiring you just need to attach the gen light wire to the terminal on the gen that is marked "A", or the term with the brown or tan wire attached to it.View Full Version : Ironhead wiring.
Someone on here had a very simplified wiring diagram for an ironhead. I thought I bookmarked it- it's gone. Now I need to be redirected to wherever it was. It was very simple and direct. Check the stickies. Here is one I drew up. Maybe not the one you are looking for but it should do. Ignore the heavy orange line. That was for something another member needed a couple years back.
With the simple wiring diagram shown, I don't need a circuit breaker somewhere online? You should install a circuit breaker between the battery and the ignition switch.
Here's another good one. I used it to wire up my ' Credit ot Hawgryder. Here is what I am using. I took the factory diagram and modified it to what I have on the bike. It is not as clean as it could be but And the wiring key. Hope this helps. You have to zoom in on the diagram to see it clearly.
Fork terminal board 2. Fork terminal board 3. Fork terminal board 4. Fork terminal board 5. Fork terminal board 6. Headlamp dimmer switch 7.
Horn switch 8.View Full Version : Ironhead Ignition coil wiring. I need some advice on wiring the ignition coil and the battery. My setup is: 1. Well, you need to power up the ignition module and the coil. That's how the other nosecone ignitions function, anyway.
How to Replace a Starter Relay
That coil will never know the markings are on it Something I routinely ignore Ok, so I looked through Sportster 86 and FXR 86 wiring diagrams and it looks like front coil should be hooked up to the battery via the killswitch and the rear coil ,optionally, could be hooked up to the tachometer.
I have updated the diagram. Can someone confirm my findings? F is the coil terminal near the front plug, R is for the rear plug terminal. It would be better to remove the F and R labels from the coil terminals as there is no relationship between the individuals terminals and spark plugs.
This is a dual fire coil. One terminal must be 12v power, then other is signal - it does not matter which you you choose for which function. Thanks for the feedback, I've updated the diagram according to your suggestions. Wire colors are the same as in the ignition module wire color coding - see the link in the first post. Interestingly, pdf from the link uses the terms Ignition coil negative and Ignition coil positive.
As to positive and negative on the coil - theoretically, there is a difference in the way the coil saturates - but here, the technical difference makes no significant practical difference